Silk in the Brambles? Evidence for Xiongnu Dress from Circular Graves

Summary

This is an abstract from the "Steppe by Steppe: Advances in the Archaeology of Eastern Eurasia" session, at the 89th annual meeting of the Society for American Archaeology.

Though the well-preserved textile finds from Noin Ula are some of the best known archaeological objects from this period in Mongolia, textiles and leather objects from Xiongnu circular graves are comparatively understudied. In part this is due to differences in preservation; circular graves are shallower than terrace tombs and organic artifacts found in these contexts, though not uncommon, are fragmentary and mineralized. In this paper, we present data on textile and leather traces from more than two dozen circular graves from three different regions of the Xiongnu world. Microstratigraphic analysis of mineralized organic matter sheds light on the relationships between different materials used to construct garments and burial trappings, while preserved structural elements like seams, hems, and linings speak to the technical skill of Xiongnu craftspeople. Importantly, the predominance of woven wool textiles belies the notion that the Xiongnu relied heavily on imported Chinese silk and suggests that some weaving may have been local. Combining technical analysis with multiple forms of microscopy to compare the complete textile chaîne opératoire across graves, sites, and regions, this paper shows that even fragmentary and trace organic remains can help address economic, technological, and political questions.

This Resource is Part of the Following Collections

• Steppe by Steppe: Advances in the Archaeology of Eastern Eurasia   •
• Society for American Archaeology 89th Annual Meeting, New Orleans, LA (2024)

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Record Identifiers

Abstract Id(s): 41598.0